We’ve given quite a lot of thought to the plan of our trip after leaving Mostar. We had several ideas: Sarajevo, then Srebrenica and the bridge in Visegrad or skipping Sarajevo and going straight to Dubrovnik and Montenegro. Eventually, we chose an alternative: Sarajevo with a stop in a funnily called city of Jajce, which reportedly is the only city in the world with a 23 metre high waterfall in the centre! Jajce got on our list mainly because of that.
Definitely an indirect road, we do extra 150 km, but we decided to see something more than Mostar and Sarajevo while we’re in Bosnia. We want to drive around, look around, see the little towns, eat cevapi and baklava in some shady joint, look for places worth staying. Once again, we’re happy that we took our car to the Balkans – thanks to that, we can stop wherever we like, whenever we like and if we spontaneously come up with a new place to see, we just go there.
How is driving around Bosnia? Quite tiring since most of the roads we drove through on Mostar – Jajce – Sarajevo route, were curvy, mountain roads. Fortunately the condition of the roads is much better than in Armenia for example. The surface is ok, no major holes or bumps, the drivers seem reasonable, not much police.
The road from Mostar to Jajce is approx. 150 km filled with beautiful views, mostly of the mountains reflected in the turquoise waters of Neretva. As we drive and drive, we keep thinking about Armenia – also mountainous, unspoiled and filled with picturesque landscapes. I supposed that in the spring Bosnia and Herzegovina is even more charming. We drive for quite a while – curvy roads all the time plus a heavy rain in the end which makes us start our visit to Jajce from Restoran Una – a not so pleasant place with quite tasty food. Culinarily, Bosnia and Herzegovina is a bit similar to Georgia and Armenia again – wherever we dined there, the food was good – no bummers. Here, it’s quite similar – we devour cevapi with ajvar served in a huge grilled pita bread and a shopska salad that I’m beginning to like more and more. We finish with a baklava and drink Bosniak coffee served in a charming pot with a lokum cake. Traditionally, you first eat the lokum cake, then drink some water and enjoy the coffee in the end.
The waterfall in Jajce is impressive, but I’m not sure if it’s worth going off the track only for that… The city itself prettily towers over the waterfall, but walking around the streets is not as attractive as in Mostar or Pocitelj, even though there are numerous sights here (catacombs, fortress ruins, medieval wall ruins and remains of an ancient temple). Unfortunately the weather prevented us from an in-depth exploration of the city.
17th century mills on Pliva look much more interesting. We come upon them quite accidentally and again, we’re happy that we took our car with us and can indulge ourselves anytime we want to. You will find the mills on Pliva 5 km from Jajce. Little wooden mills that look like abandoned witch huts, especially when you see them on a grim, rainy afternoon. Tiny bridges around them, plenty of space for a picnic or a barbecue, today completely deserted. And a great slide for kids, that ends in a tiny pond! Perfect for a hot day! Maks also loved the little mill-houses and the giant waterfall – which makes it a trip recommended for all few-year olds 😉
We leave Jajce late afternoon and drive towards Sarajevo. The road is even more demanding: mountains, rain, river on the road, traffic jam. Fortunately, we bought some supplies in local bakery. Burek is a rolled pastry with various fillings: meat, cheese, spinach, potatoes and even a pumpkin. We try it with meat, cheese and spinach – all taste great! A great idea for a Balkan breakfast or a snack for the road. A bit like khachapuri in our beloved Georgia!
Sarajevo welcomed us with much better weather, a lively city centre and old town filled with cafes and confectioneries. After the first evening walk, we quickly noticed that they still remember about the war from 1992-1995… statues, memorials, memorial panels. It’s hard to imagine it all when we look at a peaceful and lively city as it is right now…
The entry was written in cooperation with HTC. All pictures were taken with HTC One(M8).