{"id":15068,"date":"2013-11-09T17:27:03","date_gmt":"2013-11-09T16:27:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.tasteaway.pl\/en\/?p=15068"},"modified":"2018-06-06T10:22:24","modified_gmt":"2018-06-06T08:22:24","slug":"cambodia-gruesome-mementos-khmer-rouge","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.tasteaway.pl\/en\/2013\/11\/09\/cambodia-gruesome-mementos-khmer-rouge\/","title":{"rendered":"Cambodia: the gruesome mementos of the Khmer Rouge\u2026"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Soon, a week will have passed since we arrived in Cambodia\u2026 We have been to Phnom Penh, now we are in Siem Reap, 6km from the Khmer Angkor temples. Tomorrow, we\u2019re going there again, and soon we will post our account, but today \u2013 more seriously. No food, no Maks, no beautiful landscapes\u2026 For those who want to find out more about Cambodia and its recent past\u2026<\/p>\n<p>Ok\u2026 <b>so what do you know about Cambodia? Pol Pot? The Khmer Rouge? French colony?<\/b> I used to know quite a lot about Cambodia. At the university, I took a semester course entitled \u201cThe Khmer Rouge Revolution\u201d \u2013 very interesting lectures with a very interesting speaker, Adam Jelonek, then PhD, who by the way now is the ambassador of Poland in Malaysia, Brunei and the Philippines. I still remember the names of Pol Pot\u2019s comrades, the slogans telling people to harvest \u201c3 tonnes of rice from one hectare\u201d and that the regime eliminated anyone who wore glasses. The plan was to create an egalitarian, agrarian society without the educated or the rich. When I get back to Poland, I think I will read\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/lubimyczytac.pl\/ksiazka\/108212\/rewolucja-czerwonych-khmerow-1975-1978\">the book that was our assigned reading again.<\/a>\u00a0Unfortunately, after 7-8 years many facts have escaped my memory\u2026 \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n<p>Back to Cambodia and the times \u201cbefore Pol Pot\u201d \u2013 in 1887, the lands that today are Cambodia were incorporated into French Indochina. The French influence can still be seen, for example, in some of the avenues in Phnom Penh, the small croissants you can have for breakfast and the French people you see everywhere. Cambodia became an independent country in 1953 <b>and in 1975 Pol Pot and Khmer Rouge took power<\/b>. Violence, dictatorship, depopulation of cities\u2026 Two million inhabitants had to leave Phnom Penh in one day and find a new place to live in the country side\u2026 Famine, terror\u2026 That was Cambodia until 1979. And Khmer Rouge did not let go easily. Until 1999, they were involved in partisan fighting in the west.<\/p>\n<p>The exact number of the regime\u2019s victims is unknown \u2013 some sources say 1.2 million, others 1.7-2.3 million. It\u2019s a lot, especially, taking into account that at that time Cambodia had around 7 million inhabitants.<\/p>\n<div>\n<dl id=\"attachment_11596\">\n<dt><a href=\"http:\/\/en.tasteaway.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/DSC6867.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/en.tasteaway.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/DSC6867-640x425.jpg\" alt=\"Tuol Sleng, Czerwoni Khmerzy, Kambod\u017ca\" width=\"640\" height=\"425\" \/><\/a><\/dt>\n<dd>victims of the Khmer Rouge &#8211; prisoners of Tuol Sleng, the regime&#8217;s main torture house<\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n<p>In 1993, Cambodia became a constitutional monarchy. <b>When it comes to sanctioning the perpetrators of the genocide by Khmer Rouge, not much is going on in Cambodia<\/b> \u2013 the trials of some leaders are still under way, some of them have died already, some have Alzheimer\u2019s or other old age-related diseases. Pol Pot died of a heart attack, in the jungle, where his troops were hiding. What\u2019s interesting, there\u2019s talk that the current prime minister of Cambodia is against trying the Khmer Rouge. He used to be a member of the movement himself, but in 1978 he fled to Vietnam and together with the Vietnamese military he ended Pol Pot\u2019s reign. Now, however, he\u2019s protecting his former comrades\u2026<\/p>\n<p><b>To experience the gruesome atmosphere of those years, you need to go to Tuol Sleng and the Killing Fields\u2026<\/b><\/p>\n<p><b>The Genocide Museum in Tuol Sleng<\/b> is definitely one of the most macabre places we\u2019ve been to. In the 70s, under Pol Pot\u2019s reign, the building that used to be a high school became the S-21 prison for detaining persons who were inconvenient for the regime, for various reasons. They were tortured and killed\u2026<\/p>\n<div>\n<dl id=\"attachment_11597\">\n<dt><a href=\"http:\/\/en.tasteaway.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/DSC6862.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/en.tasteaway.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/DSC6862-640x425.jpg\" alt=\"Kambod\u017ca, Phnom Penh, Tuol Sleng, Czerwoni Khmerzy\" width=\"640\" height=\"425\" \/><\/a><\/dt>\n<dd>a cell with a toilet-box<\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n<p>Representatives of various social classes were held there, with particular emphasis on intellectuals, doctors, and lawyers. Whole families were held in Tuol Sleng, also women and small children, as well as foreigners (journalists) who happened to be in Phnom Penh when the revolution won.<\/p>\n<p>In the museum, you will see the cells, torture instruments, collective rooms where many prisoners had to crowd together. <b>The pictures of prisoners taken on a special chair right after they arrived in Tuol Sleng evoke terror\u2026<\/b> As you walk around the museum, you\u2019re watched by a great number of terrified pairs of eyes. What can I say, it\u2019s not a nice place, but it\u2019s worth planning a visit to Tuol Sleng to learn about the country\u2019s history. If you\u2019re travelling with a child, it\u2019s best to go into particular buildings one person at a time. Even if the child doesn\u2019t understand those things yet, the pictures might scare them.<\/p>\n<p>Maks took a peek inside one of the building together with \u0141ukasz (the guide was rushing us). His comment illustrates perfectly the conditions in which prisoners were held. When he saw the tiny cells, 0.8 by 2 metres, divided by brick walls, he asked \u0141ukasz: \u201cDad, did cows use to live here??\u201d \u2013 the place reminded him of an enclosure for farm animals\u2026<\/p>\n<p>We won\u2019t write about the details of what was going on inside Tuol Sleng \u2013 you can imagine, think of any other totalitarian prison. <b>The scariest thing for me was that this place that used to be full of joy, laughter and youth (high school) for a few years became the largest torture house of the Khmer Rouge regime, a place where people were tortured and killed.<\/b> When you walk through the square between the buildings, it\u2019s difficult to take in the two contrasting images, especially when you see how \u201cefficiently\u201d Khmer Rouge adjusted the devices originally in place for students to work on physical strength to serve as torture instruments (photo below). Instead of developing muscle power, the Khmer Rouge used them to tie prisoners to them and drag them up and down until they lost consciousness. Then, they would put their heads into large flower pots with dirty water. That\u2019s how the \u201cguilty\u201d where interrogated.<\/p>\n<div>\n<dl id=\"attachment_11599\">\n<dt><a href=\"http:\/\/en.tasteaway.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/DSC6864.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/en.tasteaway.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/DSC6864-640x425.jpg\" alt=\"Tuol Sleng, Czerowni Khmerzy\" width=\"640\" height=\"425\" \/><\/a><\/dt>\n<dd>one of the buildings and a torture instrument<\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n<div>\n<dl id=\"attachment_11673\">\n<dt><a href=\"http:\/\/en.tasteaway.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/DSC6872.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/en.tasteaway.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/DSC6872-640x425.jpg\" alt=\"Kambod\u017ca, Toul Slang, Phnom Penh\" width=\"640\" height=\"425\" \/><\/a><\/dt>\n<dd>the buildings were covered a net of energized wire to prevent the prisoners from committing suicide by jumping out of the window<\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n<p>Most convicts spent from one month up to six months in the prison. From <b>around 17 thousand prisoners only 7 persons survived. If they didn\u2019t die there, they were taken to the so-called Killing Fields, 15 km from Phnom Penh and they were killed there.<\/b> That\u2019s where other victims of the regime were buried as well.<\/p>\n<div>\n<dl id=\"attachment_11601\">\n<dt><a href=\"http:\/\/en.tasteaway.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/DSC6870.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/en.tasteaway.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/DSC6870-640x425.jpg\" alt=\"Tuol Sleng, Kambod\u017ca, Phnom Penh\" width=\"640\" height=\"425\" \/><\/a><\/dt>\n<dd>not only adults, but also children were imprisoned and tortured<\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n<p>After the fairy tale Royal palace, the genocide museum definitely comes as a shock. But it\u2019s worth visiting this place, especially since many elements remain exactly the same as in 1979. It\u2019s also worth hiring a guide for USD 2-3, who will tell you everything about the prison and the tragic era\u2026<\/p>\n<p><b>After Tuol Sleng, the next stop on the gruesome tour are the Killing Fields (e.g. Choeung Ek), where people were killed and buried on a mass scale, also those from Tuol Sleng.<\/b> Currently, in Choeung Ek, there is a tall, glazed stupa filled with skulls. We didn\u2019t go there, because on our last day in Phnom Penh it was raining heavily, but visiting this place definitely gives you a broader perspective.<\/p>\n<p>So? How\u2019s your weekend mood? I\u2019m sorry, but I wanted you to know, or remember, that Cambodia is not only about tuk-tuks, friendly people, fairy tale views on a cruise along Mekong, heat and old temples, but also about tragic history\u2026 Here\u2019s just a few sentences from me. It\u2019s worth remembering about this if you ever get here\u2026<\/p>\n<p>PS. Tomorrow\/the day after tomorrow, I\u2019ll be back with beautiful landscapes, delicious food and other Asian wonders, meanwhile, we\u2019re off to Angkor Wat! \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Soon, a week will have passed since we arrived in Cambodia\u2026 We have been to Phnom Penh, now we are in Siem Reap, 6km from the Khmer Angkor temples. Tomorrow, we\u2019re going there again, and soon we will post our account, but today \u2013 more seriously. No food, no Maks, no beautiful landscapes\u2026 For those [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":15368,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[2990,3015,2981],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v14.8 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Cambodia: the gruesome mementos of the Khmer Rouge\u2026<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"More serious this time. 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