We left Rangoon. We’ll be back for sure since on 27th January we’re flying from there in search of new places that will blow us away, breathtaking views and amazing (HOPEFULLY!) food. Would we go back if it wasn’t for the flight? Don’t think so. After two days in Rangoon, we’ve seen what we were interested in the most, we walked around the city and got tired of the taxis and traffic jam. We couldn’t get over the general mess which may be charming on one hand, but it’s also very tiring. We didn’t find ‘this special something’ that makes you wanna go back again and again in Rangoon, but some places are surely worth visiting.
WHAT TO SEE IN RANGOON?
1) SHWEDAGON PAGODA
A must see for all arriving not only in Rangoon but in Burma in general. Amazing stupa, a lot of gold and plenty of beautiful figures. We already spotted it on the first day when we drove from the airport in a taxi. Golden stupa shone overshadowing the city which was poorly illuminated. There are many legends regarding its origin, some of which suggest that it was built 2500 b. c. The complex was expanded many times and today’s stupa (over 100 m high!) dates back to 1769 – back then it was rebuilt after an earthquake that damaged the tip mildly.
You can find more pictures of magical Shwedagon Pagoda in our previous entry HERE.
entrance fee: 8 dollars (01.2015)
address: Shwedagon Pagoda Road
opening hours: 6 am – 9 pm
ATTENTION! Regardless of gender, everybody has to have their legs covered when visiting the pagoda (women are not advised to wear mini skirts or shorts in Rangoon in general). If, like Łukasz, you prefer walking around in shorts, keep 5 dollars on you so you can pay for a typical Burmese fancy ‘dress’.
2) SULE PAGODA
When we arrived in Rangoon, I had the feeling that Sule and Shwedagon were supposed to be equally amazing. However, after seeing Shwedagon, nothing will look equally amazing and beautiful. Sule Pagoda is one of the oldest ones in the city, located in central Rangon by a busy crossing which reminded us of India a little bit. Damaged colonial buildings – souvenirs left by the British, chaos and a bunch of men eating their ‘lunch’ at the small table underneath a ruined staircase. You can get to the pagoda through one of the footpaths over the crossing.
entrance fee: 3 dollars (01.2015)
address: Sule Pagoda Road (surprising ;))
opening hours: 6 am – 9 pm
3) GREAT BUDDHA – CHAUK HTAT GYI PAGODA
There’s more Buddhist temples in Rangoon you can visit but we chose Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda because of the giant statue of reclining Buddha. Buddha is 72 metres long and it’s definitely one of the biggest statues in Burma. It reminded us of the one in Wat Pho temple in Bangkok. The statue is impressive and Maks seemed to like it the most – ‘Look at the huge eyes! And the huge feet!’
Buddha isn’t a particularly old monument – it was built in 1907 and remodelled in 1957. The surroundings are not too inviting because inside it looks like a huge metal hangar more suitable for a trade fair of some kind than for place of huge Buddha’s eternal chill. But he seemed quite content! 😉
entrance fee: free
address: Shwegondine Road
opening hours: 24 h
4) KARAWEIK
Karaweik Palace situated in the North by the Kandawgyi lake is a truly magical place that looks like scenery from the Tales of Thousand and One Night. Magnificent views and a nice park around. Perfect for afternoon chill. It may look even more beautiful at night!
entrance fee: they’re acting smart here. You buy one ticket at the gate to the park (300 kyats per person + approx. 500 kyats for the camera which makes around 1 dollar altogether), but if you want to get to the point from which you get the best view of Karaweik, you need to pay additional 2 dollars (2000 kyats).
address: Kan Yeiktha Road
opening hours: 6 am – 6 pm
5) STREET LIFE
One of our favourites and definitely Łukasz’s favourite. He loves peeking into little shops and metal bowls with food (like a curious cat). Usually he makes people smile, especially here in Burma, where the locals aren’t tired with the tourists yet. People being interested in their endeavours are still something intriguing, not irritating. Especially when you have a blond-child with you 😉
Street life also means street food. It’s not as tempting as in Chinatown in Bangkok but it can still look charming 🙂
Recommended, however don’t feel PRESSURED 🙂
BOGYOKE MARKET
Bogyoke Market didn’t impress us that much. We love all bazaars and markets but the ones that are full of local products, fruits, regional cuisine and colourfulness. Bogyoke consists of shops hidden in an old school hall built by Mr C. Scott in 1920 (yet another British souvenir). It reminded us of Central Bazaar in Phnom Penh in Cambodia.
In Bogyoke you will find clothes, lots of jewellery and some souvenirs. Definitely too little food 🙂 A few steps away you can find some street merchants selling picturesque pomelos, mangosteens, rambutans and other local delicacies that may be hard to identify… not all of them look tasty, but that’s the vibe of Rangoon.
address: Bogyoke Aung San Road
opening hours: 10 am – 5 pm (closed on Mondays and public holidays)
BOTAHTAUNG PAGODA
First pagoda we visited and the least interesting one. Close to the river, charming due to the lack of tourists and peace that makes your visit easier.
Advantages? There’s a nice restaurant serving Asian everything near Monsoon (Burmese, Thai, Cambodian, Laotian and Vietnamese food) with a touch of West (spaghetti!). Even though it takes forever to go through the menu, some positions from the Burmese section look interesting.
entrance fee to Botahtaung: 3 dolary
address: Botahtaung Pagoda Road (yet another surprise;))
opening hours: 6 am – 9 pm
We were also wondering whether or not to visit a 100-years old Chinese temple called Kheng Hock Keong and Maha Wizaya Pagoda, which was built near the southern entrance to Shwedagon Pagoda in 1980 but in the end we ran out of time and decided to head to Mandalay.
2 days in Rangoon is enough, especially if you’re travelling without a little child 🙂 If you want to travel around a bit, count 3 days.
RESTAURANTS AND FOOD:
So far, Burmese cuisine haven’t amazed us. Street food looks tasty only occasionally and the conditions are a bit discouraging. Same goes for restaurants and eateries (both in Rangoon and Mandalay). In Rangoon, Monsoon on 85/87 Thein Phyu Road, near Botahtaung Pagoda might be a good choice. It’s crowded, there’s plenty of tourists but also some Asians. Tasty and intriguing starters (i.e. tea leaves salad!)! Just don’t order sticky rice with coconut for dessert if you love the Thai version with mango. This one is nowhere near it – I didn’t finish it and you know that I rarely leave desserts 😉
PS1. Remember that you need to take off your shoes and socks before entering any temple. No excuses! Be prepared to have your feet black after a whole day of sightseeing and take some wet wipes if you don’t like it.
PS2. Time in Burma is kinda funny! We’re 5 and half hours ahead of you I have never been in a place where the time difference is not ‘full’. Everything’s possible in Burma!
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