So the May long weekend is over… Feeling relaxed? We certainly are! Istanbul is a wonderful place for a short trip like that and for different occasions too. We will definitely return one day… but now, let’s bring back some memories.
I’ve already mentioned the fish restaurant we found in Karakoy but now I have to tell you all about it…
Karakoyand Galata Tower seen from Suleymaniye Camii
Karakoy lies near Galata Bridge close to Golden Horn bay. You have to pass the bridge and leave the “tourist bank” (Eminonu, Sultanahmet). Then turn left and you will find yourself in the middle of a fish market. The pavement is wet, the men are wearing rubber boots and the fish and seafood smell is everywhere.
fish market in Karakoy
We decided to eat one of our lunches in this neighborhood. Behind the fish stands there are fish restaurants. Firstly we tried Akin Balik — a place located on the bank recommended by our culinary bible “Istanbul eats”. However, unfriendly staff made us leave and look for another place. Karakoy looks quite poor and the guide urges tourists not to visit the district after dark. During daytime it’s full of tool selling stands and dirty little alleys. We decided to look for Griffin restaurant (Tersane Caddesi Kardesim Sokak 45) described as a seafood oasis (perfect for us!!!).
After asking a few locals for directions and a bit of zigzaging between cars and tool stands we found it! The name wasn’t right though — it was called Tarihi Karakoy Balik Lokantasi (which turned out to be a daytime version of Griffin).
It’s a tiny, modest, homespun place, which looks like a family business. There’s a room with a lady sitting behind the cash register and a winding staircase that leads to second floor with some more tables. What’s in there to eat? Firstly, there’s no menu. A gentleman comes to your table and shows you a plate. What’s on the plate? Three types of fish on a stick, shrimps on a stick and some other fish. That’s it. Just as much.
simple yet delicious fish dishes
Food on sticks turned out to be delicious. The fish was amazingly soft and delicate while tomatoes sprinkled with olive oil and fresh roll made a great addition to the meal. The fish soup that we ate before was so great that even our teething and food-refusing little one tried it.
After 2 or 3 restaurants tested we noticed that our guide sticks to simple restaurants with one or two meals on the menu (or no menu at all).
If you like simple food but not necessarily fish, try kofta around Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque. We ate at Tarihi Sultanahmet Koftecisi (Divanyolu Caddesi 12). We knew the taste of meatballs made from lamb or mutton because we tried them in Egypt before. Those, however, were much better.
kofta, salad and green pepper
The place is full of people but operates perfectly. Drinks, salad, and a bowl of spicy sauce from the fridge – everything lands before us extra fast. The same goes for a soup and koftas. Once again simple and delicious.
Everyone will find something interesting in Istanbul – and I don’t just mean food. Every district we’ve been to was unique. It made our 10 km long walk from Karakoy to Bebek quite fascinating.
we start our walk and look to the other side
From poor Karakoy we went to business oriented and tidy (at least at a first sight) Kabatas, then to student Besiktas and Ortakoy and finally to luxurious Bebek (known as Istanbul’s Puerto Banus ;))
Bebek — not a typical Istanbul district
City of many faces… Kadikoy on the Asian side was yet another story. Expect a short report from our ‘Asian’ trip soon 🙂
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