There’s a story about Positano Łukasz loves to tell. It’s 6 years old, only a little bit younger than our relationship. When we met in April we quickly learned we both like sightseeing, exploring, seeing new places and trying new flavours. He told me about a trip he and his best buddy took through Croatia and Montenegro to Positano in Italy while I told him about the month I spent in Spain with my friend. We knew that our first summer together will bring our first trip together. We decided on Italy and ‘his’ Positano. We left in the second half of September. A plane to Rome and then a rented car to the South of Italy. We didn’t only plan to see Amalfi coast where Positano is but plenty of other charming places located in the South of Italy too: Gallipoli, Tropea, Calabria, Sicily. Three weeks full of love, sun, best pasta and perfect pizza. It was already late when we arrived in Positano. My stomach still remembered the curvy roads but eyes already started looking forward to the spectacular views, tiny streets and romantic restaurants. Then I said something Łukasz keeps repeating: ‘If you’re taking me here for a regular trip, what will you do to make your proposal special??’
I already know that. We returned to Positano exactly 6 years later. We’ve also been here in 2012 but this time we returned alone, just the two of us, no child, no friends, nobody. Only the two of us! We’re travelling back in time and you know what? It’s the best feeling ever! Despite the fact that we’ve seen so many places in Europe, Asia and Mexico since then, drove thousands of kilometres POSITANO is still one of the best places for a romantic trip for two. Magical, special and spectacular. Heavenly views, plenty of charming restaurants where you can sit with the love of your life. Calm and remarkable. I know that it’s a perfect place for a refuge for two. I know that it’s a perfect location for a post-wedding weekend or the start of the honeymoon. I know that you will like it. That’s why today we’re bringing you a ready-to-use guide on what and where to do. After reading it you have to find your plane tickets and that’s all. And yes, surprise the ones you love!!!
HOW TO GET THERE?
Positano is located in Salerno province, on Costiera Amalfitana. Amalfi coast is definitely one of the most beautiful places in whole Italy, maybe even in Europe. We always try to find cheap flights to Rome (Wizzair this time) and then we rent a car and drive as far as Positano. There’s plenty of rental offices on the airport in Rome but we suggest doing some research and booking in advance (Europcar for instance). There’s 300 km to do but a decent highway makes it a moderately quick trip. The very end is the worst: about 30-40 km of hairpin roads which always make me dizzy! But I’d do anything to get here!
Te airport in Naples is closer but I doubt the flight prices are better.
The car is a good choice on the other hand because it allows you to visit nearby charming towns such as Amalfi, Ravello or Sorrento! We’ve been to Ravello during our first trip and even though it doesn’t have a direct access to the sea, you can enjoy some great coastal views.
WHERE TO STAY?
That’s a frequent question you ask as via Facebook. We’ll share our tips with you 🙂 Positano is not cheap so don’t expect cheap accommodation here. 120-130 is a minimum in high season. After that, in October the prices go down and you can find a room for 2 with breakfast for 80 euro.
Remember about parking costs. Due to the nature of the town it’s impossible to park along the street. Therefore we paid 150 euro for a room for 2 with breakfast and parking. We stayed in Villa Celentano – it’s this little yellow house in the picture. Third time for me and fourth time for Łukasz. Despite the price, it’s nothing luxurious. A simple and tidy room with a bathroom (some come also with a kitchen ensuite) and the most important facility: the terrace where you can sunbathe, eat Italian cold cuts and cheeses and enjoy the magnificent views. Takes your breath away every morning!
WHAT AND WHERE TO EAT IN POSITANO?
As you can imagine, there’s a ton of restaurants in Positano. If you’re into eating Italian food forever, then it’s a place for you! Our favourite spot is Saraceno d’Oro which is located near our Villa Celentano – a family-run restaurant with tables next to the street which never ceases to enrapture us with the atmosphere and homespun and simple food. I’d die for their gnocchi alla rucola wih shrimps and cherry tomatoes and Łukasz loves their spaghetti alle vongole.
We also visited more fancy Next2, Buca di Bacco near the beach, Mediterraneo and Da Vincenzo for a romantic dinner. All of them serve something delicious! The things you need to eat in Positano are: zuppa di cozze (mussels in tomato sauce), gnocchi alla sorrentina (with tomatoes, mozzarella and basil), mozzarella or scamorza cheese baked on lemon tree leaves, great ravioli (i.e. with ricotta or potatoes and seafood) and fritto misto made from calamari, tiny fish and shrimps. As for local specialties, be sure to try totani e patate – fried calamari with potatoes. You will find it on many of the fiestas organised in Positano. For dessert there’s tiramisu (best in Da Vincenzo!), lemon-based specialties which Amalfi is known for and while on the beach granita di limone, an immaculate lemon sherbet which will refresh you like nothing else.
Food is heavenly here and you can imagine how hard was it for us to leave the place! I have to admit that we indulged ourselves with food like there was no tomorrow, like Italy was about to disappear the very next day and between bread dipped in olive oil, spaghetti alla puttanesca and pizza we wondered if there’s a thing such as gluten intolerance in Italy?
As I already told you, we used the Pekao multi-currency card during our stay in Positano. We used it for most of significant payments, mainly in restaurants. Because you can’t leave Italy without trying pastas, gnocchi, seafood or mozzarella di bufala with prosciutto crudo! 🙂
We paid with the card for the snacks and shopping on the airport, for the car, petrol and highways on our way from Rome. In Positano we paid with euro – before we left we charged the account with euro by exchanging PLN online. Just a few clicks without running to the exchange office and at a good rate. Thanks to that, we avoided currency conversion. We took some money from an ATM too, mainly to pay for our accommodation and parking (our guesthouse did not accept card payments) but also for some other small expenses. Again we avoided currency conversion and commission too because all withdrawals worldwide are free until the end of September if you use the multi-currency card. I wrote more about the card and its advantages HERE (in Polish). How much did we save using the card? We’ll probably know in October 🙂
The prices in Positano are high and they will probably stay this way. But it’s still worth coming here for at least 2 or 3 days. As for the restaurants, the prices depend on your likes and appetite. Bruschetta witll cost you 4-5 euro, a plate filled with prosciutto and two balls of mozarella di bufala – 12 euro. Same goes for calamari or parmigiana di melanzane. Pastas cost approx. 10-15 euro. Pizza too.
A DAY IN POSITANO. WHAT TO DO OR WHAT TO SEE IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD
You can spend your time in Positano lazily – like we did this time, or see the surroundings.
There are ferries leaving from near the beach and these will take you to Amalfi, Salerno, Sorrento or Capri. You can also go to Praiano or abovementioned Ravello. All places are tempting and look amazing. It’s a pity we haven’t come for longer in order to drive around a little.
This time however we decided to do absolutely nothing. A breakfast with a view at 10 am, a walk or not, sunbathing on the terrace or on the beach with a newspaper or a book, granita and limone to refresh ourselves with, swimming in the sea, pizza for lunch, Italian ice cream for dessert, a walk, a book at the beach until the sun sets, a walk back uphill to get dressed for the dinner, a short siesta, a dinner in a charming place, a walk and some wine. Just perfect!
PS1. Don’t expect a beautiful beach in Positano – it’s rocky, with grey sand but the views and warm water make it up for it 😉
PS2. In late September, an annual FESTA DI PESCE (fish festival:)) takes place here – this year it happens on 26th. It’s such a pity that we won’t be here anymore then! During fiesta, everybody comes to Fornillo located a bit apart from the city. People eat fritto misto and drink wine. And then the boats ship everybody to the beach in the city centre. It’s perfect! I know cause weve been there! 🙂
*the entry was written in cooperation with Bank Pekao S.A.